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Displaying items by tag: NYFW
Saturday, 19 February 2011 06:58

Christopher Raeburn: remade and reimagined

Written by Tania Braukamper

Every so often a collection comes along in which the story is stronger than the collection itself. Where Christopher Raeburn is concerned, that is almost certainly to his credit; for his story not only supports his work, but defines it.

Inside the New York fashion week presentation of Raeburn's collaboration with Victorinox (creators of the original Swiss Army Knife, for those unfamiliar) pieces hung from the ceiling in a clustered display of functionality-meets-wearability. The items have a raw, rugged appeal - more than once do I consider making off with one of the thick recycled military coats, so perfect do they look for a New York winter day like today.

Christopher Raeburn for Victorinox A/W '11

Known for his creative use (and re-use) of materials like surplus military supplies, Raeburn's magpie-like fascination with objects results in some interesting creations. The discovery of some cast-away horseshoe nails became a key part of the project, with Raeburn challenging Victorinox to recreate the Swiss Army Knife out of the nails. Elsewhere in the collection is a parachute jacket made from surplus Swiss military air-brake parachutes; a heavy Captain's coat re-appropriated from old wool coats and military cotton bed sheets; and a hooded scarf with pockets, made from Swiss military blankets, that's the pinnacle of practical, utilitarian fashion.

Click below for more images from the Christopher Raeburn for Victorinox presentation.

Published in clothing
Saturday, 15 January 2011 15:22

G-Star RAW's industrial cool

Written by Tania Braukamper

If G-Star Raw were looking for a way to reinterpret their brand of cool urban denimwear yet again, then they found it for fall 2011 in the form of the industrial, the utilitarian, and with an overtone of vintage Victoriana.

An odd mix? Perhaps - but it's one that worked. The show opened with a women's Victorian-style frock coat that had been reimagined with a buckled neck and contrasting panels with billowy pockets. Next G-Star introduced the collection's workwear theme, if ever so subtly, by way of cheek-scraping hot pants under a leather belt purse that leaned more towards a trademan's tool belt than the other interpretations we've seen of the trend to date. One imagines that, given just how negative the hot pants' hemline was, most of the audience failed to even notice the accompanying jacket with inflated collar - if ever a life jacket was made to look sexy, this was the time.

G-Star RAW A/W '11

G-Star's menswear followed with the same hardwearing, industrial themes, only this time with a military bent. While military fashion for men has largely been and gone as a trend, G-Star's offering was fresh enough to take it to a new season. These were no military dress embellishments; rather it was thick wool greatcoats and army prints gone geometric that turned G-Stars man into one who was well equipped to handle any conditions, any weather, any situation.

As the 56-outfit New York fashion week show marched on, we saw more plays on Victorian-era gothicism, more utilitarian buckles and straps, more cool slouchy denims and women's fitted leathers. Then, if there was any doubt about the workwear inspirations behind the collection, G-Star crushed it with subtle embossed motifs of tools on industrial-style overalls and boiler suits. These were not the most wearable, saleable part of the collection: but for the rest, G-Star offers a selection of unique and cosy winter pieces - all with an industrial-strength level of cool.

View the full G-Star Raw autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 runway collection by clicking on the thumbnails below and clicking through the photo gallery.

Published in pictures
Saturday, 16 April 2011 18:30

Jill Stuart: country meets city

Written by Tania Braukamper

Jill Stuart had me at her opening outfit: a below-the-knee silk dress with a vibrant owl print. It's hard not to love something that's emblazoned with cute woodland animal motifs, and Stuart's wily foxes and birds in flight were hard to ignore. Further into her New York fashion week show the animal motifs gave way to furs and bespeckled Bambi-like pelts. When she wasn't taking us on a trip through the Black Forest, Stuart stuck to slick and sophisticated outfits in earthy, rustic blocks of colour.

By night Stuart's fall 2011 girl is something of a modern flapper, hitting the town in deco designs with pleats and drop-waists, shimmering fabrics and a vintage-inspired colour palette. For day or night, the stark realisation is that Stuart's grunge girl from last Fall is long gone. Instead, here is a collection of sophisticated looks will surely not disappoint.

jill stuart fall 2011

Click on the gallery below for the rest of the Jill Stuart fall 2011 runway coverage.

Published in pictures
Saturday, 26 February 2011 05:54

Backstage at Diesel Black Gold

Written by Tania Braukamper

Backstage at Diesel Black Gold's fall 2011 show, models are smouldering. Hair is side-slicked into a rough, textured style that manages to traverse the territories of rock-chic and romance all at once, and make-up is as hard as the collection's tough leather pieces. Creating a perfectly coherent look isn't always easy, but creative director Sophia Kokosalaki just gets it. Today's completed look at Diesel is in perfect unity with the collection.

The beauty look is all about the eyeliner, makeup artist extraordinaire Pat McGrath tells Fashionising.com. Specifically, it's lashings of Covergirl's Liquiline Blast being used to create the youthful, sexy look. As the girls and boys are preened and primed for the runway we catch a few moments with models from glamazonian Estonian Karmen Pedaru to Australian darling Bambi Northwood-Blyth - the photos from which you can see at the bottom of this article.

backstage diesel catwalk

Click on the gallery below for photos from backstage at Diesel Black Gold's New York fashion week show.

Published in pictures
Friday, 22 April 2011 10:06

Juan Carlos Obando's dream state

Written by Tania Braukamper

Juan Carlos Obando's New York fashion week presentation was a carousel of dream-like visions moving slowly in and out of Chelsea's Eyebeam space. Not literally visions - but with flowing frocks, gilded hair, and the backdrop of a foggy concrete room peppered with soft lights, they could easily be mistaken for such. As each girl made her slow, drifting movement around the room, a soundtrack played that was more sound effect than music. It was Joseph LoDuca's haunting score to The Brotherhood of the Wolf, though it seemed to belie the classic beauty of Obando's draping pieces.

The story behind Obando's fall 2011 collection is actually based on rock concerts and the Victorian era: an odd mix of influences that swirled together to create a collection of elegant gowns interspersed with gothic Victorian details and KISS-inspired lightning bolt motifs in foiled leather. These inspirations came through in the most understated of ways, leaving Obando's expertise in construction and form to be the collection's highlight.

Juan Carlos Obando A/W '11

More images from Juan Carlos Obando's autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 collection can be found by clicking on the gallery below.

Published in pictures
Wednesday, 09 March 2011 15:12

Hair how-to: effortless side waves

Written by Tania Braukamper

Renato Campora's hands move quickly; and in mere seconds a model walks away with a side ponytail of perfect barrel curls. We're backstage at the New York fashion week American Express presents CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Cardmember Only Show and Renato, lead stylist for Frederick Fekkai, is making the night's softly glamorous hairstyle look almost too easy to create.

The desired effect, Renato explains, is a look that's both young and effortless, but also sexy - with a deep side-part that frames the face, and the hair swept aside at the back showing off the nape of the neck, a sensual body part Renato reminds us.

Below you can find some how-to instructions of how to recreate this hairstyle for yourself, along with photos from backstage of the Frederick Fekkai team at work.

Backstage at CFDA/Vogue cardmember show 2011

How to get the look

Here's how Renato and the team at Fekkai styled the runway look using products from Fekkai's range.

  • On wet hair, apply Fekkai Coiff Controle Ironless Straightening Balm and blow dry the hair straight
  • Create a deep side part and apply Fekkai Advanced Full Blown Volume Styling Whip for added volume
  • Add Fekkai Coiff Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel then slightly tease the hair in 3 sections with the Fekkai Classic Brush
  • Curl the hair using a 1 inch curling iron leaving the ends out
  • Let the hair cool for about 10 minutes, then brush the curls out to create a natural bend
  • Sweep the hair to one side over the shoulder and spray with Fekkai Sheer Hold Hair Spray for all day hold and flexibility

curled side ponytail

For another variation on the hairstyle, keep the side-ponytail rather than wearing the curls loose.

For more backstage photos from the Vogue/CFDA show, click on the thumbnails below.

Published in hair
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