Written by Tania Braukamper

Every so often a collection comes along in which the story is stronger than the collection itself. Where Christopher Raeburn is concerned, that is almost certainly to his credit; for his story not only supports his work, but defines it.

Inside the New York fashion week presentation of Raeburn's collaboration with Victorinox (creators of the original Swiss Army Knife, for those unfamiliar) pieces hung from the ceiling in a clustered display of functionality-meets-wearability. The items have a raw, rugged appeal - more than once do I consider making off with one of the thick recycled military coats, so perfect do they look for a New York winter day like today.

Christopher Raeburn for Victorinox A/W '11

Known for his creative use (and re-use) of materials like surplus military supplies, Raeburn's magpie-like fascination with objects results in some interesting creations. The discovery of some cast-away horseshoe nails became a key part of the project, with Raeburn challenging Victorinox to recreate the Swiss Army Knife out of the nails. Elsewhere in the collection is a parachute jacket made from surplus Swiss military air-brake parachutes; a heavy Captain's coat re-appropriated from old wool coats and military cotton bed sheets; and a hooded scarf with pockets, made from Swiss military blankets, that's the pinnacle of practical, utilitarian fashion.

Click below for more images from the Christopher Raeburn for Victorinox presentation.

Written by Daniel P Dykes

Under the warm lights the catwalk is glowing. Not too strange a fact in itself - lights at a fashion show always have ability to give you a tan - but this is certainly the first catwalk I've noted to have a textured catwalk, such is my vantage point. And so it is that Prabal Gurung's fall 2011 New York fashion week showing opens on a marbled catwalk and Karlie Kloss emerges, like the goddess that she is, to slink down the catwalk and open this showing. And she does so in a red, one shouldered statement dress. The kind that you might label as reminiscent of the recent trend if it weren't for the fact that, with the cut slanted across her chest, she does it so much justice.

Statement red soon fades to winter off-whites and black. Black lace and black sheers on which the opening is reduced to an accent colour on the pieces. And this is collection with accents galore. Mostly accents of layers, with different cloths layered upon one another. And there in lies its real strength. Most winter collections look to provide fashionisers with a plethora of layers, conscious that they're going to spend autumn and winter taking layers on and off as they go about their business. Prabal Gurung has by passed that, instead mostly creating layers within each indivual piece. Sometimes they're in silvers, other times in crochet. Sometimes they're matt, though more often with a sheen to them, though pieces even exist at the other end of the spectrum in all their sparkled glory. On the whole though, the collections layers are done in ruffles but, at their best, done in sheers.

karlie kloss new york fashion week

And those sheers give rise to Prabal's take on the season's sheer maxi dress, while elsewhere in the collection the forest greens that many another designer are using are present alongside two-tone bell bottom which, admittedly, aren't the best take on that trend available to fashionisers.

We'll have all our photos from Prabal Gurung's autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 showing online shortly, and will update this article once we do.

Written by Tania Braukamper

Managing to infuse fuchsia, florals and bows into a collection and still have it come off as feminine - but not girly - is something of a feat in my book. Rebecca Taylor did it for fall 2011, seemingly without any hassle, resulting in a sense of refinement that was neither too neat not too fussy.

Taylor's fall 2011 look isn't for everyone, granted - from the cherry red lips and blushing babydoll cheeks to the youthfully waved hair, the modest hem lengths to the flowing cuts, this is pretty - not sexy. Taylor's girl is sophisticated. She can look just as cool in a pair of semi-sheer flared pants and a long-line slouchy top as she does in a minidress. At her New York fashion week show Taylor proved one thing - for those who can pull off a relaxed feminine look, she's not to be overlooked.

rebecca taylor fall 11

Click on the gallery below to view the rest of the photo coverage of Rebecca Taylor's fall 2011 runway show.

Written by Daniel P Dykes

Another of the capsule showings from students of the Academy of Art University was Minha Yoon's. Minha gave New York fashion week a collection that was all black, but turned to the ever-spring sheer and cutaway clothing trends to provide detail.

minha yoon

You can view all of Minha Yoon capsule collection from New York fashion week by clicking on the thumbnails below.

Written by Daniel P Dykes

Under a spotlight each model takes to the catwalk. From afar the all dark tonality of the pieces they wear must look plain, but up close the fabrication, rich and textured, is far more obvious. So too, I suspect, are the futuristic cuts that make up the opening pieces in Vivienne Tam's fall 2011 showing at New York fashion week. In these pieces the fabric is layered and sculpted around the neck and shoulders, each one giving the impression that the model may have just stepped onto the catwalk from some future period of time. Not the dystopian future that typically inspires fashion, but a refined one, each piece maintaining a sense of femininity. It's a shame, then, that this luxurious detailing may be lost on those not in a prime viewing position.

It's not all dark clothing against a dark catwalk however. Whites and greys present a pop, doubly so on this catwalk. These two colours and their variants are mixed through the collection's simple pieces, in its pieces that are perfectly inline with the crochet clothing trend, and are additionally layered under sheers and laces. Also to be seen is the odd red piece and winter prints, but it's collection's dresses with a Far Eastern, Kimono-like tilt that really stand out. They're impressive for both their detail and movement, a fact made more prominent by the spotlight falling upon the models whose frames they are draped across.

vivienne tam fall 2011

Of it all, however, the collection's cutaway elements are what really stand out. Lavilshly applied as detail to pieces, be it as shoulder caps or full sleeves, it's a motif carried through into the collection's footwear. Each model, from as best as I could tell, took to the catwalk in a pair of boots of black or plum colouring, each pair featuring cutaway sections up the shin.

All our pictures from Vivienne Tam's autumn (fall) / winter 2011 / 2012 catwalk can be seen by clicking on the thumbnails below and clicking through the gallery.

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