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shawl collar oak nyc 04 Stripe Shawl Collar Cardigan at Oak
Stripes are a great summertime buy. We featured a recent spread with a lot of exaggerated striped silhouettes: tight trousers, body-con blazers, and shirts with Breton stripes that most people think of as oh-so-Frawnch. This particular striped offering has a new silhouette and is fashioned in a lightweight knit for the summer months, but isn’t so hard to match. A plain vest underneath will leave you even cooler underneath the linen separate.On my weekly Oak browsing, I caught a view of the navy-and-white Utility Shawl Collar Cardigan. The 100% linen cardi is unisex, with drooping patch pockets and an overall generous drape on the frame. A five-button closure makes it great to wear on a gusty boat trip, on the beach, or while night cycling, and its fairly simple shape will catapult it to 2012, if you take care of it well. As someone who regularly kills garments before their lifespan is up, I can recommend some tips: wash on cold & delicate, soaking first with spot treatment if necessary. Lay to dry flat on a towel, and don’t assume your cleaners/fluff ‘n fold will keep it safe. An obvious first choice would be jeans; I’d like to see it with flat-front shorts and boat shoes. [$158 at oak]


YMC navajo 04 horz Would You Wear It? Navajo Lace Ups at Oki Ni
Navajo Lace-Ups at Oki-Ni are a good way to get your kicks (literally?) without planning and executing a complex color scheme with the entirety of your closet. I found them during my weekly online shopping excursion, and I got really into them… but I also have a thing for Native blankets and those super-cool Southwestern jackets. If you get trapped outside on a group camping excursion (or if your car breaks down in the middle of nowhere), it would be great to have a pair of these Navajo lace-ups on hand… so you can justify the buy by saying that these shoes are “for emergencies.” They look practical and are inspired by 1970s footwear, and they have gum soles.But would you wear them? I think they’d be exceptional come fall, with trim black jeans, something worn out and kinda grubby, or a ’70s-style cardigan sweater. Vibrant and boldly patterned, these shoes can carry an outfit, and they aren’t too expensive, either. They are a restock item at Oki-Ni, which means that you have your pick of some new sizes. Right now, the YMZ men’s Navajo Lace-Ups are available in UK 6, 7, and 9. Fairly low-priced for Oki-Ni, and available now. [$123.56 at oki-ni]


marilyn monroe 231 The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia Notamachine.tumblr.comMarilyn Monroe: incredible beauty, icon, the center of heady conspiracy theories. We’ve gotten to know her oft-repeated snaps, from The Seven Year Itch subway-grate picture in the white dress to her Last Sitting images by Bert Stern (unfortunately replicated with Lindsay Lohan by the same photographer). These photos–some of the lesser-known ones of Marilyn Monroe that turn up the heat–still remain as hypnotic as their famous cousins. I hope you enjoy looking at them as much as I enjoyed finding the ultimate collection of Marilyn photographs at NotaMachine.tumblr.com. Bookmark it and enjoy much, much more.marilyn monroe 05 The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia Notamachine.tumblr.comThe World Knew Her as MarilynMarilyn Monroe’s ID reads “Norma Jeane DiMaggio,” but the world knew her at Marilyn Monroe. Smirking above the placard, Monroe made one of the best ID photos we’ve seen: now that is a beautiful photo for more than just an ID card! It’s sort of a shame, really.marilyn monroe 01 The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia Notamachine.tumblr.comThe Less-Than-Primped ShotMarilyn might have her hair perfectly done, plus that requisite shellac of lipstick, but a simple terry robe is more unusual than the marabou-trimmed sex kitten stuff. A closer look shows terry-covered heels framing Marilyn’s ankles. This looks like a Seven Year Itch dream! Spring blossoms at the window and a bottle of beer in the fridge, I think.marilyn monroe 06 The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia Notamachine.tumblr.comLight as a FeatherThat’s a lot of leg! Marilyn lounges with an expression similar to the Last Sitting: dreamy, eyes nearly closed, skin aglow. While her legs are summer bronze, that expanse of lighter thigh hints at days out wearing ’50s wiggle dresses.marilyn monroe 02 horz The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia Notamachine.tumblr.comEarly Norma JeaneSome of those early Marilyn Monroe shots truly make the rounds, particularly her early beach shots. The candy-striped bandeau bikini photo, left, looks incredibly modern, and we get an early look at Norma’s curly hair. Before Marilyn went platinum, she was strawberry blonde and a lot more natural. Early portraits show a different kind of vulnerability than her practiced fan-mag snaps of later years.marilyn monroe 03 horz The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia Notamachine.tumblr.commarilyn monroe 10 horz The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia NotaMachine.tumblr.comOuttakesMonroe never denied her early nude portraits, simply saying that she had to pay her bills at the time. These portraits aren’t featured as often as the ones on the plain red spread, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t interesting. In one, Marilyn brings back the languorous bed lounging she did in Niagra before getting bumped off in the film; in another, she accidentally displays the exact trim of her bikini line. Oops.marilyn monroe 04 horz The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia Notamachine.tumblr.comCaptivating RedRed is a good background for a smoldering star, and Marilyn gives the camera an eyeful. The close-up allows us to catch a glimpse of her famous peach fuzz that supposedly diffused light and aided her photogenic quality. Thick red lipstick shows the careful work Marilyn did to contour her lips to perfection. Word has it that Marilyn’s makeup application was a science, and I’m inclined to believe that.marilyn monroe 11 horz The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia Notamachine.tumblr.comOut in the WildernessIf you’re in the forest, you can only hope that you’ll find someone half as lovely as Marilyn trekking through the woods. As entrancing as short shorts are on Marilyn’s backside, doesn’t she look adorable in jeans, too? Judging from the footwear, these pics were taken at around the same time.marilyn monroe 09 The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots Youve Never SeenVia Notamachine.tumblr.comLikes and dislikes.Marilyn’s own hand proclaims that she likes this one “the best.” The stunning spot, the wide-open space, and the beaming smile? I can understand why Marilyn loved that snap.This is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to interesting Marilyn Monroe shots. I highly recommend checking out the updates at Notamachine.tumblr.com.More in the gallery!





attention What have you learned from bespoke?He would have been measured like this. You shouldn't beThis was a question put to me the other day by a friend. He was asking about shoes, but I think it applies equally to suiting, shirts and other items of dress. Hopefully you will find my response interesting.1 It will not be perfectBespoke clothing is a wonderful thing, but the first time you have anything made it won’t be perfect. There are three reasons for this. One, it is handmade, an individual item with minor flaws (or perhaps just characteristics). Without them, it would have been made by a machine. Second, you’re new at this, and chances are you can’t describe the image in your head accurately. Third, so is the craftsman. As good as his first attempt to fit anything to you will be, there will always be something he would like to do different the second time around.2 Act naturallyThis covers the fact that you have to stand naturally when you are being measured – particularly for suit. Laugh, flex your hands, move your feet; try not to look like a man who has just heard the command ‘attention!’ The point also covers the fact that you should consider how you wear your clothes. Don’t buy a Super 140s suit if you go drinking and leave your suit on the floor when you get home. Don’t get super thin soles if you never remember to check whether it’s going to rain before leaving the house.3 Ignore what people say about other peopleSad as it may be, tailoring and shoemaking are bitchy businesses. Everyone has some form of grudge and everyone is some form of salesman. Never trust a tailor who says he is the only man who can cut a good suit. From the opposite point of view, a cutter once told me: “Someone came in and said he’d been to Caraceni, Anderson & Sheppard, Camps de Luca, Huntsman and Poole, and they were all terrible. He asked me to measure him. I showed him the door. That man will never be satisfied.”4 Be conservativeThis is investment dressing. Investments should be conservative. They need to last the fickle fancies of fashion and – more importantly – they need to last through your personal changes in taste. Get a navy single-breasted suit and a black pair of lace-up shoes. Then get a mid-grey single-breasted suit and a dark brown pair of lace-up shoes. Then blue again for the suit, perhaps double-breasted or a flannel, and another pair of black shoes, perhaps a Derby. Ties and socks are much easier to swap than suits and shoes. And a navy suit can be Italian classicist or American prep, depending on what you wear it with.5 Do itI once saw someone comment on a forum that he was interested in discussions about bespoke, but was never going to do it himself. The results appeared to be too volatile, given the money. Ignore forums. They are talking over minutiae. They are never going to spend pages talking about the fact that all the bespoke suits they are comparing make them look better than 99% of men in the world. Because it’s obvious, a given. They’ve all accepted that and moved on to discuss the Tautz lapel. If you like the idea of bespoke and can afford it, then do it. You won’t regret it. People will always have one tiny thing they dislike about your suit. But it’s not theirs. It’s yours.Simon Crompton is the author of Permanent Style
finsbury balmoral brogue mahogany 011 Custom The different formalities of shoesThis is a casual shoe. Can you point out why? (Lodger Finsbury shoe)As with much of menswear, there exists a sliding scale of the formality of footwear that the obsessive can get caught up in if he so chooses. I think this is generally to sacrifice the beauty of personal expression to the uniformity of correctness – a correctness that doesn’t exist today and, much to the disappointment of many, never existed in the first place. (It is a similar disappointment to the revelation that Italians don’t dress particularly well as a whole, very few Englishmen wear the good suits their country is famous for, and Americans wear Ralph Lauren polo shirts but otherwise singularly fail to look like Ralph Lauren.)However, there are some differences in shoes that are worth remembering. Here they are.Some shoes are entirely inappropriate for some occasions, even today. You wouldn’t wear an out-welt cordovan boot to a black tie dinner, and you wouldn’t wear a velvet slipper to go tromping through the countryside. Those are probably the two ends of the spectrum of formality, and the key thing to notice is the difference in delicacy. Formal shoes are delicate, casual shoes are rough. Just like worsted and tweed, or satin and knitted wool. The point is universal.Apply this to every type of shoe. A derby is more casual than an oxford because it has two humping facings strapped across the instep. A brogue is more casual than a whole cut because, well because of the broguing. It breaks up the line of the shoe and makes itnjagged. A leather sole is more formal; a thinner sole is more formal; a closer-cut welt is more formal. You get the idea.This is worth remembering because there is an actual, noticeable difference in the formality of a derby with a double sole, broguing and outwelt stitching, and an Oxford, lace-up whole-cut. It’s the kind of difference that someone will notice at a job interview. Perhaps not consciously. Plus if you have ignored this part of your outfit, doubtless other elements are just that little bit too casual and unconsidered. It makes an impression.So that’s worth being aware of. What it’s not worth losing sleep over is whether a derby can be worn with a worsted suit. For a start, there are many many types of derby. Some have just two holes and the facings are cut so high you barely see them under the trouser leg. They present merely a glorious, shiny expanse of very-formal leather. Smarter than a rubber-soled Oxford half-brogue certainly. Stating that it is not correct to wear a derby with worsted (because it is a casual, country shoe suited only to tweed or – at the most – flannel) is to draw a misleading hard line.Second, any rule would be self-defeating, even if it were easy to define. A derby shoe is just as appropriate as a wool tie. Denying both and confining a man to worsted, silk and Oxfords is to defeat the self-expression that lies at the heart of good dress. No one who plays entirely by the rules has ever been considered a good dresser – and not because they merely stood out by innovating, but because to be a good dresser, to develop style, you have to be encouraged in your dress and feel free to revel in it. Otherwise you are merely the man in the grey flannel suit. It doesn’t matter how much I love grey flannel (and I do, oh I do), if everyone wears it and I’m being told to wear it then it cannot be stylish.Understand the rules so you know how to break them. Understand the formality of shoes.

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